NATTY BY NATURE: SO WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH NATURAL WINE?
It seems like Natural Wine is popping up everywhere. But what does it really mean?
A couple of years ago, you had to really know your wine in order to even be familiar with the term, “natural wine.” It was industry lingo - at least that’s what it felt like to me anyway. Now, pretty much everyone I meet is into natural wine - and I think that’s a beautiful thing. But I think it’s important to understand what natural wine really is, what to look for, and why the natural wine movement is important.
I also think it’s important to differentiate “natural wine,” from phrases like, “clean wine,” which are mostly marketing buzzwords generated by companies. If someone is trying to market you “clean wine,” like it’s some sort of health food or something… Well… Here’s the thing:
There is no such thing as “clean wine.”
Wine inherently isn’t clean because it has alcohol in it. If people are trying to market wine to you as a wellness beverage - well, as much as I hate to break it to you, it’s not. It also has naturally produced sulfites - so if anyone try to sell you in the idea of a sulfite-free wine, you’re probably being bamboozled.
So, without further ado, let’s get into the polarizing topic of natural wine. But first - let’s check out the actual definition of natural wine according to Raw Wine - one of the largest communities for natural winemakers and enthusiasts:
“Natural Wine is farmed organically (biodynamically, using permaculture or the like) and made (or rather transformed) without adding or removing anything in the cellar. No additives or processing aids are used, and ‘intervention’ in the naturally occurring fermentation process is kept to a minimum. As such neither fining nor (tight) filtration are used. The result is a living wine – wholesome and full of naturally occurring microbiology.”
If you’re looking at that and thinking — um can you please translate this from wine speak to ENGLISH??? I got you.
Basically in natural wine making, nothing is added. The grapes are farmed without people adding any chemicals that shouldn’t naturally be in a vineyard, and the wine is made in a way where no harsh chemicals or enzymes are added. No fancy designer yeasts are used - just the yeasts floating around in the air. The fermentation process kicks off naturally, and the human beings just sit back as the grapes do what they’re supposed to do, which is turn into delicious wine.
In natural winemaking - nothing is added or tampered with.
It seems pretty logical, right? I bet you’re probably wondering, “Well, don’t all wineries do that?” Unfortunately, the answer is no. On the other end of the spectrum are - Conventional Wines.
What are Conventional Wines?
Conventional wines usually have a little bit of “help” in terms of the winemaking process. This is not without reason, however, as big wineries simply have way too much production to implement a lot of the natural winemaking practices. Demand is too high, and demand for a consistent product is even higher.
If you’re selling hundreds of thousands of cases a year, sometimes you have to get a little “assistance,” from chemicals. Perhaps you’ve got pests in your vineyard - so you’re going to have to use pesticides. Maybe that particular vintage was really rainy which yielded a higher-acid wine that was low in sugar. We all know that sugar is an essential ingredient to produce alcohol, so if a wine is too low in sugar, you may end up gasp chaptalizing (or adding sugar) to increase the level of alcohol in your wine.
Another example of intervention that often happens in conventional wines is as simple as the choice of yeast that is used. Let’s say you are making Sauvignon Blanc in California, but you really want it to taste like it’s from New Zealand. So, you’ll purchase some yeasts that will add the flavors of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to your wine and use them while crafting your next vintage.
The argument against conventional wine is multi-fold, but one of which is if you do that, are you really allowing the wine to express the nature of its surroundings? If you want a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand - buy one from there! Don’t use California fruit and create some kind of Franken-wine! Let the California wine be a California wine and taste like a California wine!
The dark side of conventional wine…
With Conventional Wine, winemakers can add all sorts of chemicals to a wine and just straight up not tell you. If you want to know a few chemicals that may be going into that bottle of two buck chuck you purchased at Trader Joe’s - well you probably don’t - but keep reading:
MEGA PURPLE - NO IT’S NOT A SUPER VILLAIN
Sometimes with conventional wine, the additives used can get a bit out of hand. Some conventional wineries will add things like Mega Purple - an additive made from Ruby Red grapes with a very high sugar content to boost the coloring of their red wine because people like their red wines really effing red apparently. These wineries believe if they have a lighter red wine that vintage, in their minds, nobody is going to want to buy that.
Enter Mega Purple. Mega Purple is also added to give wines a bit more body and add more of those pyrazines - or those bell pepper flavors - to a red wine.
Mega Purple is highly concentrated - and a little goes a long way. This chemical is added purely for aesthetic purposes, but if you add too much all the natural aromas of the grape go away. Winemakers don't want to admit they use that stuff because I guess it’s a little bit like cheating, ain’t it?
And because they don’t want you to know, guess what? It’s not going to be on your wine label. You’ve probably drunk Mega Purple in a wine before and have not even known it.
LIQUID OAK - JUST… NO.
You thought this was the oak aroma you were getting from your wine, right? Well, what if I told you that the oak you were tasting on that oaky Chardonnay actually came from liquid oak extract? Like not even real oak, just straight up some liquid someone made and added to a wine?
Look, I’m not here to freak you out or tell you that every single winemaker that doesn’t make natural wine is using Liquid Oak and Mega Purple - I’m just telling you these things so you’re aware of them and understand why people have gotten so into natural wine.
FISH BLADDERS & VOLCANIC ASH FOR CLARITY
You’re probably raising your eyebrows at this point and wondering, “Why would someone ever use a fish bladder in winemaking?” Sometimes, winemakers used a product called isinglass which is derived from the swim bladder of a fish to fine their wines. If winemakers don’t use isinglass, they may use other chemicals like egg whites and milk casein as well. For all you vegans out there, this is important for you to know. If a wine is fined with egg whites, it’s probably not vegan.
Winemakers fine their wines because if they don’t, they may look hazy. Wines are often fined so you can get that beautiful, crystal-clear coloring when you enjoy your next glass of white or red. This is why a lot of natural wines often look a bit cloudy.
USING GRAPES THAT AREN’T SUPPOSED TO BE THERE
This last one really gets my goat and is actually majorly illegal. Some wineries from certain parts in the world add grapes that are not supposed to be there to bolster their wines. It could be because they’re chasing scores from certain wine outlets or simply because they believe fuller-bodied wines are what most people want.
An actual example of this took place in Italy during 2008, when certain winemakers were adding grapes like Merlot to add a little bit of oomph to that vintage of Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s the thing - Brunello is usually majorly expensive. It’s made with with Sangiovese and when you are buying a very expensive Brunello - THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE PAYING FOR.
So how would you feel if you coughed up $80-$100.00 for a bottle of Brunello, expecting to enjoy some Sangiovese, and found out that the winemakers were adding Merlot to it and not telling you?
THE BOTTOM LINE ABOUT NATURAL WINE & WHY PEOPLE LIKE IT:
The reason why a lot of people like natural wine is because of transparency.
There’s a security in knowing the wine you purchased from whatever producer is natural and doesn’t have any chemicals you don’t know about floating in it. It’s also nice to know that your wine has exactly whatever grapes written on the label in it.
Am I telling you to exclusively drink natural wine? No. I’m just explaining to you why the movement has caught on with such force and why people are such strong proponents of it. Conventional wines have their place and there are certain conventional wines I absolutely love. A lot, in fact. Part of being a Thurstqueen is being armed with the knowledge you need so you can find a bottle of wine to support your drinking needs at any given time.
FOUR RESTAURANTS AND BARS TO TRY NATURAL WINE IN LA:
THURSTQUEEN HAS YOU COVERED
Los Angeles actually has a great burgeoning Natural Wine scene. If you’re looking to give a glass of natural wine a try, this would definitely be one of the places to go exploring. Allow me to give you a couple of recommendations:
Bar Bandini - Echo Park
This is one of my favorite natural wine bars in the city, and I’ve been enjoying natural wine at this place since they opened in 2015. Like, I am such a Bandini fan, I’ve actually had birthdays here. If dark, moody, grungy vibes that are a throwback to the ‘90s are your thing - this place is it. Bar Bandini is the perfect place to sip on some tulip yellow colored glass of Riesling and enjoy the atmosphere.
Chez Tex - Santa Monica/Venice
If you’re on the West Side looking for a cute little spot to get a glass of natural wine and indulge in some delicious faire - Chez Tex is the answer. This cute wine bar has a cute outdoor patio and conjures up major Parisian sidewalk café vibes. The food here is super fresh, and their veggies are amazing. Be sure to try their spiced carrots with strained yogurt while sipping on some watermelon colored rosé. Your tastebuds will thank you.
Lasita - Chinatown
Tucked away in a little strip mall on Broadway is a natural wine oasis featuring the most incredible Filipino food you’ll have ever had in your LIFE. Full stop. This casual yet trendy spot is home to lechón, rotisserie chicken, and noodle dishes. Plus - their wine list is exclusively natural. Service here is incredible and the gorgeous dining space conjures up images of sunsets in the Philippines. A hidden gem in Los Angeles.
Tabula Rasa - Hollywood/Thai Town
An LA Institution, Tabula Rasa is definitely one of those, “must-go” spots if you’re exploring the natural wine scene here. With an impressive and multi-page wine list, Tabula Rasa conjures major neighborhood vibes smack dab in the middle of Hollywood. That’s no simple feat, trust me. With its friendly staff and non pretentious vibes, this spot has a massive cult following. Hit up Tabula Rasa for a drink and then walk on over to Jitlada, one of the best Thai Food spots in Los Angeles and a Jonathan Gold favorite, for dinner.
If you’re going late and looking to get into a little mischief, Tabula is a mere spitting distance from two other major LA Institutions: Harvard and Stone and Jumbo’s Clownroom. Hit them both up for an evening to remember (and be sure to bring plenty of cash.)
I hope you find this helpful if you’re out and about in LA, looking for some fun spots to enjoy a glass of natural wine. And now, let’s get to the ultra natty —
PICK OF THE WEEK: RUTH LEWANDOWSKI ROSÉ - $25.00
This wine is simply iconic. Beloved by many natural wine enthusiasts, this striking, sunset-hued rosé has some serious depth and can be enjoyed with food or casually with friends. If you’re a fan of Tavel and are in search of a heartier, more thought-provoking expression of pink, the Ruth Lewandowski Rosé would be it.
A fascinating blend of Tempranillo, Souzão, and Touriga Nacional, this wine has a bit of bubblegum and watermelon aromas that are tempered with wild fennel and crisp sea air. It’s definitely a weightier rosé and is going to hit harder than any of that lighter-hued stuff from Provence, so keep that in mind.
The next time you order some Middle Eastern food - pair this beautiful rosé with it. The fruitiness will definitely complement the more savory components of falafel and kebabs.