THURSTQUEEN CHATS ALL THINGS CARIGNAN, THE AFFORDABLE BOLD AF RED YOU NEVER KNEW YOU NEEDED
I’ve always found the world of “grape politics” such an interesting one. Like, seriously, who made Cabernet Sauvignon King and Chardonnay Queen? How did Pinot Noir get a reputation of being cerebral and prized for its finicky pain in the ass reputation in the vineyard? Why is Merlot hated so got damn much?
Then there are the outcast grapes, the ones that I adore. Gewürztraminer, a grape that nobody understands (partially because the name sounds like a virulent STD and partially because of its reputation for being absolutely batshit crazy. )
Côt, the French expression of Malbec considered by many folks to be just, “whatever,” in comparison to its warmer climate expression (totally untrue, by the way.) And then there’s Carignan.
For some reason Carignan has a reputation of being a “workhorse,” grape used for blending purposes. This workhorse has been adding a bit of leathery, peppery “oomph,” to wines for centuries, yet has never been able to secure the starring role in a wine. Until now.
I’ve been fortunate enough to see more and more bottles of Carignan begin to surface their beautiful, rustic little heads - at affordable pricepoints no less. If you find yourself to be a person who adores big, soulful reds - Carignan will be your secret weapon.
When done right, this grape can be concentrated, powerful and complex. Thankfully, Carignan hasn’t received all the meteoric love that some other formerly underrepresented grapes and regions have, so you can still afford a good bottle of the stuff.
WHERE DOES CARIGNAN GROW?
Carignan thrives in hot climates, and the majority of plantings are found in the French region of the Languedoc-Rousillion. In addition to Southwestern France, you’ll also find plantings of Carignan in Spain - more specifically in Priorat - and Italy.
This varietal is not just confined to those regions however, I’ve also had great Carignan from places like Morocco and Northern California as well. Basically, this grape does well in desert-like conditions and poor soils because of its hearty nature.
PRO TIP - PEEP OLD VINE CARIGNAN
If you’re purchasing Carignan from France, be sure to keep an eye out for the words, “vieilles vignes” (old vines) on the label. You’re likely to get more intense flavors from Old Vine Carignan then the stuff that’s been planted more recently.
WHAT DOES CARIGNAN TASTE LIKE?
Carignan is a very earthy, savory wine. If you like GSMs from places like the Southern Rhône or Paso Robles, you’ll probably really vibe with single varietal Carignan wines. You can expect loads of leathery, dusty, and meaty flavors with this wine, and it’s the quintessential barbecue-friendly red.
Folks who dig Cabernet Sauvignon’s bright red fruit but aren’t super big on its heavy tannins or high price point will find Carignan to be a great alternative red. It has a bit more acid than Cabernet Sauvignon, but that acid cuts beautifully through fattier, meatier dishes.
PICK OF THE WEEK: Domaine Ledogar ‘La Mariole’ $21.00
If there ever was a wine that was an incredible value, the Domaine Leodgar La Mariole would be it. This bright and brambly expression of Carignan from the Corbieres region of the Languedoc demonstrates the beautiful, multidimensional nature that old vine Carignan is capable of. And that price, don’t even get me started.
This red is the big red drinker’s everyday red. It’s juicy, zesty, lively, and has all that leather and peppery goodness folks who love darker and more structured reds really vibe hardcore with.
There’s an airiness to this Languedoc red that I would almost associate with some of the wines coming out of cooler climate spots like Eastern Europe.
Some expressions of Carignan can be super high octane and blown out, just full of overripe fruit and too much tannin, but not this one. Honestly, one sip of this wine took me back to the time my husband and I were in Carcassonne, and I would pair this beauty with any and all things meat related. Beautiful blackberry goodness.