BOOMER JUICE? MAYBE NOT -- THURSTQUEEN SHARES LITERALLY EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BORDEAUX BUT WERE TOO AFRAID TO ASK…
Bordeaux is a real doozy. There’s so much history, politics, and not to mention an increasingly speculative global market for the wines from this region. As average joes, buying Bordeaux on the reg seems increasingly untenable. Basically Bordeaux has baggage.
Before visiting Bordeaux last December, I seriously thought Bordeaux was the “land of Boomer wine.” And I think as someone who worked fairly extensively with these wines, I can comment on that.
The majority of the Classified Growths are around $100.00 in terms of entry level pricing, and I’m sorry I just don’t think I’m ever going to be able to drink wines like that on the regular in my lifetime. So, yes, I wrote the wines of this region off as elitist boomer juice. As a matter of fact, I was going to start this blog post off with the headline “Welcome to the land of Boomer Wine,” and I’m low-key annoyed that I can’t say that with as much confidence after visiting. As much as I hate to admit it. I liked Bordeaux. A lot.
I was expecting the region to be stuffy and snooty AF in all honesty. I didn’t think as a budget-oriented millennial with a fetish for obscure varietals from weird places and small producers I’d exactly get a warm welcome. But the people were so unbelievably hospitable and kind. And the whole dining scene was very laid back. It was pretty damn easy to find a decent glass of wine priced at the equivalent of 7-10 bucks. And usually the menus of the places we went to catered to smaller, mom and pop producers. So I couldn’t help but be confused, because the entire image I had of this region as an American (with nearly ten years of experience working in the Wine Industry no less) was shattered.
The biggest thing that really gets my goat about Bordeaux in general is how rigged the region is in terms of favoring giant, heavily commercialized producers over the little guys. And not just in terms of importing them to the United States — I mean that in pretty much all aspects. In fact, shit over there has gotten so intense, that a few weeks before I popped in to say hello to some of the grapevines, there were major protests in the streets.
So I guess the real question is, how did this happen? How did a region blow up so much, to the point where it’s nearly untenable for smaller growers to make wine there? And impossible for most people to afford the good stuff?
I mean, it could be related to that one dude, a lawyer (whose name I dare not mention that rhymes with Bobert Barker) who made his career writing about Bordeaux and became “the ultimate authority on fine wine,” or whatever that means.
His glowing reviews calling some Bordeaux wines, “kinky,” led to loads of wine sales of certain Right Bank estates. I guess super wealthy people were curious about what kinky wines tasted like. I mean, I’m kind of curious too in all honesty. (Notes of whips, chains and ball gags perhaps? Maybe?) Regardless, these kinky wines are now the most expensive wines in the world. Like seriously, they will cost you the downpayment on a mortgage in some circumstances.
But the truth is, you can drink good Bordeaux on a budget without 1 percenter money. It’s hard AF, but it’s doable. And all my shittalking aside, Bordeaux is probably one of the most historically rich regions around. So without further ado, let’s bust out our jars of Grey Poupon, put on our ascots and chat all things Bordeaux, shall we?
THE HISTORY OF BORDEAUX
The first vines planted in Bordeaux date back to the Roman era. Pliny the Elder - the philosopher not the coveted IPA named after him - was the first to record evidence of these vines.
Bordeaux wines were incredibly popular during the Middle Ages, when King Henry II married the French queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Bordeaux blends - or clarets as they were called back then - were voraciously consumed in England up until the 100 Years War.
In the 17th Century, Dutch traders drained the swampland in an area called the Médoc - which we will discuss in greater depth in a bit - and planted vines in this area. It was during this time, legendary vignerons who had the gift of gab like the Marquis de Segur, were able to not only make awesome wine at places like Château Lafite, but were able to market their wines quite well to the Royal court. It was during this time some of the most prestigious houses, like Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, and Château Mouton Rothschild came into being, and their wines captivated wealthy and privileged folks all around the world.
Several US presidents were fans, and Thomas Jefferson in particular burned many a hole in his wallet buying cases and cases of wine from some of these estates.
THE NAPOLEONIC ERA:
THE 1855 CLASSIFICATION - THE ULTIMATE WINE RANKING/MARKETING SYSTEM
In 1855, under the emperor Napoleon III, a ranking system called - big surprise - the 1855 Classification was established by the growers on the Left Bank. Right Bank estates were ignored - which turned out to be a huge mistake later - and the folks ranked all the estates within the Crus (Growth) System. The “best” growths were the first growths, the “second best” were the second growths, and so on. The system stopped at the fifth growths, and the estates that didn’t make the cut were considered “Crus Bourgeoise.”
The 1855 Classification still holds weight today, and the wines from houses ranked within the more prestigious tiers can price their wines at a higher cost. Yet with all that in mind, some houses that have higher rankings have dipped in quality and are producing relatively meh wine. And a lot of the “best,” and most expensive estates are actually on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Like a lot of documents drafted hundreds of years ago, it’s one of those things that may not be as relevant today - despite some producers’ wishing it was.
THE DARK AGES - PHYLLOXERA
In the late 1800s, shit got real however, and the Phylloxera epidemic devastated the vineyards in Bordeaux. The epidemic spread around the globe and things were looking very grim for wine production. The grapes that were able to survive in Bordeaux, however, were the ones we know now as Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Semillon, Petit Verdot, Muscadelle, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Carmènére.
BORDEAUX IN THE MODERN ERA OR “THE GOLDEN AGE”:
HOW DID IT GET SO EFFING EXPENSIVE?
For the majority of the 20th Century, up until the 1980s actually, Bordeaux wasn't crazy expensive. In the 1960s, Bordeaux went through a bit of a crisis and wines from the region weren’t well regarded.
Then, in 1982, something miraculous happened. That former lawyer I mentioned before? The dude whose name rhymes with Bobert Barker who called those Right Bank wines kinky? Yeah, him. Well he came up with a fairly clever system that involved scoring wines on a points system. 100 point wines were considered perfect wines, and anything within the upper 90s was considered quite excellent. It was an easy way to “rank,” a wine in a way that people would understand. And honestly? It was a pretty smart way of going about things.
All things considered, Bob was a good writer. He knew how to talk about wine in a way that people would vibe with back in the day, and he wrote a lot of articles praising the 1982 vintage of Bordeaux. The word of this incredible miracle vintage caught like wildfire. Bob continued to champion the wines from Bordeaux, and eventually Bob himself became revered as some kind of a wine guru of sorts, and folks trusted his opinion. He was the original Wine Influencer of his day - before there were Wine Influencers - and he just really loved extracted, oaky, fruity Bordeaux.
Naturally, demand for Bordeaux went up, because Bob’s reviews were so pithy and fun to read and eventually, winemakers felt like they could raise their prices. Which they did. That, coupled with the rankings of the 1855 Classification, are the reasons why some wines from Bordeaux fetch such exorbitant price tags. It’s also an example of how powerful truly great marketing can be.
GEOGRAPHY OF BORDEAUX - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW:
We divide Bordeaux into two parts. The Gironde River is what acts as the divide and serves as a way to moderate the temperature so the vines growing in Bordeaux stay happy. The portion on the left of the Gironde is called The Left Bank. And the area on the right side of the Gironde is called The Right Bank. It’s actually fairly simple.
Certain grapes are typically planted in higher percentages on the Left Bank versus Right Bank. Left Bank wines tend to have a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, resulting in more powerful and tannic wines. Right Bank wines have more Merlot, and are softer, plusher and more easy-drinking. Though the wines of the Right Bank weren’t classified in 1855, they are some of the most expensive and well-regarded bottles of wine in the world. Seriously, just look up the cost of a bottle of Château Pétrus if you don’t believe me. A basic rule of thumb to consider is saving your Left Bank wines for aging, and your Right Bank wines for earlier drinking. If you’re at a restaurant, I’d suggest going with Right Bank wines, because they’re usually more “ready to go,” if you get my drift.
All rules have their exceptions, however, as certain vintages of Left Bank wines are ready to drink now, and in certain communes of the Left Bank - like Saint Estèphe — higher percentages of Merlot are added to the blend. But generally, the rule above is a good one to follow.
THE GRAPES OF BORDEAUX: PSST YOU’VE HEARD OF THEM BEFORE
Let’s be real — Bordeaux is a haven for red wine drinkers. It was Napa before there was Napa. Seriously, Napa wines were inspired by Bordeaux.
Bordeaux has some signature grapes, and some regions have higher percentages of these grapes based on geography. One of the most popular Bordeaux red grapes is Cabernet Sauvignon - the king of grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the dominant grape of the Left Bank of Bordeaux. There are other blending grapes, like Merlot. Merlot is the second-in-command and is often used to soften Bordeaux Blends. On the Right Bank, Merlot is the dominant grape.
There are other grapes that are added like spices. Their primary function is to enhance the seasoning of certain wines. The red grapes include: Petit Verdot, Carménère, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Carignan. On the Right Bank, you’ll see a lot of Merlot and Cabernet Franc blends. The Cabernet Franc typically adds some spice to Merlot’s velvety softness.
Left Bank wines will typically feature Cabernet Sauvignon for power and structure, Merlot for body and texture, and a smattering of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc for added spice. Right Bank wines - barring the appellation of Saint-Emilion - will typically feature wines that are made from Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Franc.
White wines from Bordeaux are relatively rare. They feature Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. Sauternes, a dessert wine popular within the appellations of Barsac and the Sauternes region, also features these grapes as well.
MAJOR APPELLATIONS OF BORDEAUX - LEFT BANK
APPELLATION 1: PAUILLAC - FOR NAME DROPPERS
FOR YOUR RICH UNCLE “WHO ONLY DRINKS CAB”
Pauillac is an appellation on the Left Bank, and it’s arguably the most “prestigious” of the bunch. The top estates within the entire region of Bordeaux on the Left Bank are situated in Pauillac. I think it’s important to know the wines of Pauillac if you want to act like you know what you’re talking about when you’re around super rich people - maybe in a country club idk - and want to seem like you know about wine. Pauillac wines are considered “an iron fist in a velvet glove.” Some of the top First Growth estates like Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Latour are concentrated within this region.
APPELLATION 2: ST-ESTÈPHE
FOR BIG & POWERFUL BOIS
St-Estèphe wines are big AF. They have a lot of power, and are a bit rustic compared to the smoother wines of Pauillac - or even the floral wines of Margaux which we will cover in a bit. St-Estèphe has a lot of clay soils, and may have wines with higher percentages of Merlot, because Merlot thrives in clay. Look into drinking wines from this region during historically drier years, as clay retains water. St-Estèphe wines are also fantastic for aging, because they tend to have a lot heavier tannins. I myself am very partial to this commune.
APPELLATION 3: MARGAUX
FOR FLOWER FIENDS AND ELEGANT ENTHUSIASTS
Margaux has more graveled soils, and is known for producing elegant and graceful wines. The wines from Margaux are often described as “feminine,” whatever that means, and Margaux actually has the highest number of Second Growth estates within all of Bordeaux. The wines that come out of Margaux are relatively solid, all things considered, and it’s the one appellation that has a property named after it- Châteaux Margaux. Soil here is very fine and gravelly, which makes it great for particularly rainy years.
APPELLATION 4: ST-JULIÉN
WHERE THE PARTY IS AT
St-Julién is is located between both Margaux and Pauillac, and is one of the smaller appellations in Bordeaux. But that doesn’t stop it from producing some really great wines. There are no First Growths in St-Julién, but there are loads of Super Seconds. Super Seconds, a term coined by Bob Barker himself, are Second Growths that are so good, they drink comparably to a First Growth. Super Seconds are - usually - a better value than some of the First Growths on the market, but they will still cost you a pretty penny. St-Julién wines are smooth operators and have loads of character, charm and balance.
APPELLATION 5: PESSAC LÉOGNAN
WHAT FOLKS WHO LIVE IN BORDEAUX ACTUALLY DRINK
When I visited Bordeaux in December, Pessac was literally all I drank (thanks to a pro tip from our really helpful and delightful cab driver.) The wines from Pessac Leognan are usually Cabernet-centric, and have just the right amount of structure you’d expect to get from a Haut Médoc. Yet with all that in mind, they have some of the softness and easygoing smoothness of a Saint Julién. Out of all the major appellations, I was the most impressed with Pessac, and a lot of the Pessac Léognan wines were fairly priced and a good value. I highly recommend seeking some out if you can.
RIGHT BANK
APPELLATION 1: POMEROL
THE LAND OF ONE PERCENTER WINE
It is quite possible the most expensive wines in the entire world are located in Pomerol. These wines have mostly Merlot - so all you Sideways fans can quit talking shit - and a little bit of Cabernet Franc for some added spice and “oomf.” Pomerol wines are luscious, soft and a bit more restaurant-friendly than the Cab-centric regions of the Left Bank (or what some call the Médoc.) Pomerol typically has loads of clay soils - some of it being blue. Top estates like Pétrus are famous for having this rich blue clay.
APPELLATION 2: LALANDE DE POMEROL
FOR HIPSTER KIDS AND BARGAIN HUNTERS
Lalande de Pomerol is just North of the more prestigious appellation, Pomerol. A lot of wines from this region are great values, and here you’ll find more Merlot and Cabernet Franc-based wines. Let’s be real here, Thurstqueens, the cost of land in Pomerol is ridiculously expensive. So more and more up-and-coming winemakers have decided to spend their time in this humble region, and the quality of wine from Lalande de Pomerol is on the up and up.
APPELLATION 3: ST-ÉMILION
A TREASURE CHEST OF GOOD VALUE WINE
If there’s any region worth visiting, it’s St-Émilion. This picturesque village looks like something out of a fairy tale or a postcard - your pick. The wines from Saint-Émilion have their own classification, aptly named the Saint-Émilion classification which changes every couple of years. Yes, it does make things more complicated, but it keeps the estates on their toes and helps prevent complacency. The wines in St-Émilion tend to have higher percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blends, making them appeal to pretty much any big red enthusiast.
Did I mention St-Émilion is also gorgeous?
VINTAGES - DO THEY REALLY MATTER?
I don’t know what it is about Bordeaux, but there’s something about this region that makes people OBSESSED with vintages. Here’s the thing - vintages matter EVERYWHERE. As a vintage 2021 was an absolute train wreck due to the frosts that occurred. It was literally one of the worst hits to the French wine industry in DECADES, and reverberations were felt in Italy as well. A lot of producers had to get really crafty, and some who were used to growing everything ended up having to purchase fruit from other places. Some producers delivered and produced great wine, some didn’t. But everyone felt the pain.
But since we’re talking about Bordeaux, I’m happy to chat about the last few vintages and how they were received.
2020
Wines in Bordeaux during 2020 were low-key and elegant AF, like Audrey Hepburn in a pair of jeans. This year was considered an all around excellent year, and is definitely one to remember.
2019
Some folks were saying that 2019 was considered a “miracle vintage,” and folks were pitching 2019 as “The next 1982.” There was a period where I was writing a lot about Bordeaux, and there were plenty columnists who hyped the crap out of 2019. All in all, it’s a vintage to remember.
2018
2018 was considered one of the best vintages in a long time. It was a vintage where people tasted the wines and they were so good that expletives came out of their mouths. Consider 2018, 2019, and 2020 to be a triptych of excellent vintages, and remember these years as you enter your wine travels.
2017
2017 was an inconsistent, relatively “meh” vintage. It was a good year for Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wines on the Left Bank did better than the wines on the right bank with higher concentrations of Merlot. This is because there was a lot of rain, and the Merlot that was grown in clay soils got a bit less concentrated. Focus on the Left Bank here.
2016
Another great year you won’t be disappointed by. And the best thing about this year is that most of these wines are ready to drink as we are in 2023! Those Cabernet-centric reds from the Left Bank have mellowed out a bit, so if you’re looking for a restaurant-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux - hit up some of those left bank wines.
PICK OF THE WEEK: Château Les Charmes-Godard $25.00 @ Stanley’s Wet Goods
Finding a decent quality Bordeaux for under $30 dollars in the US is difficult - to say the least. As a matter of fact, this was probably one of the hardest wines I’ve done in terms of “Pick of the Week,” and it continues to prove my point about not being the biggest fan of Bordeaux as a wine region (if you’re purchasing wines with a budget in mind.)
I’m sure wealthy folks will read this blog and just call me a bitter Betty - and hey, that’s fine. If you’re looking to purchase really expensive wines then honestly this blog is probably not for you anyway, and I wish you the best of luck.
With all that in mind, in terms of Bordeaux, Château Les Charmes-Godard is a solid choice. This wine was made by Nicolas Thienpont - one of the names to look out for when hitting up the region of Bordeaux in general. The Thienponts are a big family in these here parts, and are the names behind the storied estate, Vieux Château Certan in Pomerol. And here’s the thing, I gotta tip my hat to the family for trying to make a reasonably priced - by Bordeaux standards - correct, and elegant expression of white Bordeaux that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. So I give them major props in that respect.
As a wine, Château Les Charmes-Godard has loads of gooseberry and passion fruit aromas. It’s about as pristine and pure as a wine can get. It’s elegant to the point of being a little bougie so if you want to score a bottle and impress Aunt Janet who regularly goes to the country club without burning a hole in your wallet, this would be the one to snag.
Yet with all that in mind, I can’t honestly spout effusive praise and write poems about this wine. Not because it’s bad or anything, but because it’s well… I don’t know…
For me it’s just personally not as interesting as some of the other wines I’ve tried in my travels. If I were to compare the wines I’ve had in my lifetime to food, many of them would be camel burgers, quail eggs, caviar, roast duck and dim sum. This wine would be tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich. It’s nice. It’s pretty. It’s well made. And sure, I’d enjoy having it from time to time when I’m really craving a grilled cheese sandwich and a tomato soup. But… that’s about the extent of what I have to say.
I’ve had wines from Eastern Europe that were grown on volcanic soils and aged in volcanos. I’ve had wines from Mexico that were aged in kaleidoscopic barrels with strips of Hungarian, American, and French oak. And I’ve had wines from the Savoie that were made by champions of indigenous grapes, who were visionaries in their own right. So I guess I find Bordeaux to be a bit of a let down sometimes simply because its “thing,” is…. well… pedigree.
Anyway, I’m sure what I have to say is a bit of a hot take to some, and I truly mean no offense by it. But I have to stand by my beliefs. I also have to hit up my importer friends and ask them to start bringing over more wines made by the little guy from Bordeaux to the United States, so I can snag a few. Thanks for listening.