THURSTQUEEN WORLD TOUR: SWITZERLAND

Switzerland makes otherworldly white and red wines that are one of the best kept secrets around.

I recently discovered wines from Switzerland when I went to Raw Wine LA on an assignment for Domestique Wines, and boy was I glad I did. If you’re like me, and you gravitate to lighter-bodied red wines like Pinot Noir and white wines with precision like you would find in Germany or the etherial lightness of the Loire Valley - then you HAVE to try Swiss Wines. Full Stop.

I had the pleasure of running into an old colleague/friend of mine, Dan Hess, who is running his own import company, Convivium Imports, featuring carefully curated, small production wines from all over the world.

The Swiss wines he brings in are his wine babies, I can tell, and he is super passionate about them. It looks like things are going well for Dan, as his Swiss wines are selling like hotcakes and he can’t seem to keep them on the shelves. It’s a good problem to have, in all honesty.

When I tasted them, I immediately understood why and you’ll have to check out the Pick Of The Week so you can get your hands on a bottle of the stuff. But until then, let’s discuss the history of Switzerland, notable Swiss wine regions, and what to look for from this amazing wine producing country.

THE HISTORY OF SWISS WINE

Swiss wine dates back to the Roman Era, and vines have been cultivated in this region for thousands of years. There is actual evidence that wine was made in Switzerland as far back as 200 BC, when archaeologists found a small ceramic bottle of wine in a tomb.

Swiss winemakers have been practicing their craft for centuries, and they have a pretty enthusiastic market base. Part of the reason why you don’t see that many Swiss wines in the US is because these wines are so good, the Swiss end up drinking them all by themselves! Like, legitimately Swiss wine is so got damn good around 1% is left to be exported.

Like the majority of the rest of the world, Switzerland had it rough during the Phylloxera Epidemic in the 19th century and lost a lot of vines. But the Phylloxera Epidemic led to a lot of diverse new varieties growing in their vineyards. Switzerland is a treasure-trove of different grapes that grow in its 6 different regions.

SWISS REGION 1: VALAIS

(A WHITE WINE LOVER’S HAVEN)

KNOWN FOR: CHASSELAS , PETIT ARVINE, AMIGNE, HEIDA

Valais is probably going to be the region you will most likely encounter in the US. This Swiss wine region produces most of the wine that comes from this country, and the climate here is sunny and dry. A lot of the steeply sloping vineyards here overlook the Rhône Valley.

White varietals like Chasselas - they call it Fendant here- are very popular. If you like Pinot Blanc, I would recommend giving Chasselas a go. Chasselas haters will say it’s a grape that doesn’t have a lot of character, but I don’t think that’s true. I think it’s elegant and minimalistic, like a cloud.

As for other whites, Petit Arvine is a lot more textured, and if you’re a lover of white Rhône varietals like Grenache Blanc, Rousanne or even Chardonnay - this grape will be your jam.

Amigne is a rare grape only grown in the Valais region. It is a bit similar to Chenin Blanc in the sense that it can be done in a variety of styles ranging from dry to sweet. The winemakers in Valais have a funny little culture when they make Amigne. They like to put little bees on the label. One bee means the wine is going to be drier and more mineral driven, two bees means it’s a little sweeter and so on. The more bees on the label, the sweeter the wine will be.

See the bee on the label? Photograph from Dan Hess of Convivium Imports

Petit Arvine is a white grape that is going to have a bit more character, and you can expect aromas of grapefruit and salty minerality. So Albariño fans… Give this grape a go.

Heida is a grape that you may already be familiar with, it’s Swiss for the “Savagnin” grape which is often found in the Jura region. Heida is an elegant and refreshing grape, with a lot of aromatics. Sometimes Heida is made into dessert wines.

SWISS REGION 2: VAUD

(FOR BURGUNDY & GAMAY LOVERS)

KNOWN FOR: PINOT NOIR, CHASSELAS, GAMARET AND PLANT ROBERT

The Vaud has a sunny and Mediterranean-esque climate. In this warmer region, they grow plantings of Chasselas and Pinot Noir. It’s unbelievably scenic and a UNESCO World Heritage Sight. This photo doesn’t do it justice. If you like Burgundy and Gamay, you’ll feel right at home here.

In the Vaud there are plenty of plantings of Pinot Noir and Chasselas, but there are also other grapes like Gamaret, a red grape that is a cross of Gamay and Reichensteiner. Plant Robert also grows here, and it is also a rare biotype of Gamay that almost went extinct, but is a protected grape since 2007.

SWISS REGION 3: THE THREE LAKES (ROSÉ ALL DAY YOURSELF SILLY)

KNOWN FOR: PINOT NOIR, CHASSELAS & OEIL-DE-PERDRIX ROSÉ

This are a has South-facing views of the Jura mountains, and the vines grow in terraces around the three lakes - Lake Neuchatel, Lake Murten, and Lake Biel. Lake Neuchatel is famous for doing unfiltered versions of Chasselas that taste fresh and funky. This region is perfect for bike tours or taking in the beautiful scenery! All the wines in the Three Lakes Region have a “freshness,” which means they have a sort of “freshly-squeezed” quality about them.

The Three Lakes region also specializes in a Rosé called Oeil-de-Perdix, which translates loosely to, “The Eye Of The Partridge.” Oeil-de-Perdix gets its name from its deep pinkish color. Supposedly, that’s the same color of a freshly killed game bird (yikes!) But trust me, the wine doesn’t taste nearly as gruesome as the name.

Interestingly enough, Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home was actually inspired by Oeil-de-Perdix to create America’s favorite gateway wine, White Zinfandel, getting college students drunk everywhere for decades to come!

SWISS REGION 4: GERMAN-SPEAKING SWITZERLAND

(PINOT HEADS & GERMAN WHITE WINE GEEKS)

KNOWN FOR: PINOT NOIR, MÜLLER THURGAU, SYLVANER, HYBRID GRAPES

In this German-speaking portion of Switzerland, the climate is quite a bit warmer. Not much is known about Eastern Switzerland, and the wines are an extremely rare find in the USA. But the area typically specializes in Pinot and red wines.

I have heard firsthand from sources who have been to this region that the Pinot Noir is on point. I’m talking, Grand Crus Burgundy status, so if you can get your hands on some - SNAG IT.

This region also specializes in interesting German whites, like Müller-Thurgau and Sylvaner. A lot of these whites are super aromatic with tropical qualities. Sticking your nose in these puppies is like breathing in a hurricane of lychee, pineapple, and exotic flowers.

The German-speaking portion of Switzerland also cultivates Hybrid Grapes. (And no, I’m not talking Indica grapes or Sativa grapes.)

Most wine grapes are of the vitis vinifera species. Hybrid grapes are a cross between vitis vinifera and other heartier grapes like vitis labrusca, vitis rotundifola (and other super nerd stuff that I will reserve for another blog.) Hybrid grapes are growing more and more popular because they are resistant to frosts, and as climate change continues, some regions experience more and more extreme weather conditions. We will definitely discuss hybrid grapes more in the future.

SWISS REGION 5: TICINO

(BORDEAUX-LOVERS, PAY ATTENTION)

KNOWN FOR: MERLOT

Warmer, sunnier, and located along the border of Italy, Ticino has been making wine since the Roman era. It was only after the 1900s, when Merlot was introduced that Ticino wines started getting some attention. In fact, some would go so far as to say that the wines from this region rival Bordeaux. These expressions of Merlot are probably closer to the type of Merlot grown in Italy, with loads of herbal notes.

SWISS REGION SIX: GENEVA

(IF BEAUJOLAIS IS YOUR JAM)

KNOWN FOR: GAMAY, CHASSELAS, PINOT NOIR, GARANOIR, CHARDONNAY

Geneva is the country’s third-largest wine producing region after Valais and Vaud. This region is literally encircled by the Swiss Alps, which protect the vines from heavy frost and also act like a reflector shield to make sure the vines get more sun. A lot of the vineyards here are often family-run and not too far from the urban center, they grow in the suburbs. It’s a bit warmer in Geneva, and the region is really not too far from the Savoie and the Rhône Valley.

You can expect to find solid expressions of Gamay in Geneva, and Chardonnay as well. So all you Beaujolais fans - Geneva is the place for you!

PICK OF THE WEEK: DOMAINE DU CHAMBET CHASSELAS $52 @ Ester’s Wine Shop

If there was one word I could think of to describe this wine it would be serene. The simple fact a wine is clean, crisp and uncomplicated doesn’t mean it has nothing to say. The Domaine du Chambet Chasselas actually says a lot.

This wine actually reminds me of a really pristine lake. Crisp linen sheets. Pure white flowers. And that fresh, mineral-driven rain smell you would get from clean and cool water. I like to call that baby petrichor.

I understand the price point is higher than the normal Thurstqueen price range of $30, but this is a truly unique and beautiful bottle of wine. Also, I believe the fact that this wine keeps flying off the shelves corroborates this fact that the pricing isn’t unreasonable. If the wine has sold out of Ester’s Wine Shop and you’re trying to track it down, don’t hesitate to reach out to Dan himself.

If you like minimalism, stripped down perfumes, and getting your zen on — this wine is for you. Truly something special.