THURSTQUEEN SPILLS THE SAKE ON EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SUSHI'S BFF - BUT WERE TOO SCURRED TO ASK
A lot of folks have hit me up asking for a post on Sake, and I get it. The world of Sake can seem pretty intimidating to folks when they first start drinking the stuff. There are so many different types and ways to serve it that it’s easy to just want to throw your hands up and order a beer the next time you’re out at your favorite sushi spot. But I challenge you, Thurstqueen, to study up on Sake because this creamy, delicious beverage deserves so much more than the usual sake bomb nonsense.
Now I by no means consider myself an expert on Sake, heck there are even Sommeliers who devote years of their life to studying this stuff and that is definitely not me. I’m just a casual Sake imbiber who knows a little bit about it from my sales days, so this is just going to be an overview on Sake, a sort of Sake 101 if you will. Hopefully after reading this post, you’ll feel a bit more “in the know,” about Sake and will be able to order a bottle off the Sake List with confidence the next time you go out. Kampai!
WHAT IS SAKE
The Japanese word “Sake” technically translates to alcohol. The term “Sake” is used as an umbrella term in Japan for a variety of different spirits, including Umeshu (Plum Wine) Schochu. You could probably even call whiskey “Sake,” in Japan because it means alcohol. Technically what we know as “Sake,” is actually called “Nihonshu.” Yet for our purposes, we’ll just call it good old fashioned Sake.
HOW IS SAKE MADE
Sake is brewed from three ingredients: rice, water, and a special mold called koji which acts as an enzyme to convert the sugars in the rice to alcohol. Yay! Sake production is a complicated, multi-step process. But at the end of the day, Sake fermentation has quite a bit in common with the fermentation process to make wine. It involves yeast in conjunction with enzymes eating sugar and pooping out alcohol.
STEP ONE — POLISHING
In order to get those sugars that are so essential to alcohol production, the rice grains need to be polished. The tough outer layers need to be polished away to expose each grain’s starchy core – because that’s where the sugars are. Different layers of polish effect the ultimate flavor profile of the sake, and we will get into that a little later on.
STEP TWO – WASHING
This process is pretty self-explanatory: the polished rice is washed to remove any impurities that would change the flavor of the final brew. It’s kind of like rinsing your rice before you cook it -- which is definitely something I hope you do, Thurstqueen. Who wants to taste any of those gross outer layers anyway?
STEP THREE – SOAKING & STEAMING
Before brewing Sake, the rice is supposed to have a certain amount of water absorbed in it in order to be prepared for the steaming process. The amount of a time the grains of rice soak in water depends entirely on their polish level. After, the rice grains take a nice trip to the spa, (aka a steamer) where they get their steam on. The primary goal for steaming is to ensure the starches in the kernels are soft and supple.
STEP FOUR – KOJI CULTIVATION
A small portion of the steamed rice is taken away to a temperature controlled room for cooling and then is sprinkled with koji spores. The koji mold acts in a very similar fashion to enzymes in the winemaking fermentation process, the koji breaks down the starches in the rice into sugars. The entire process for creating koji rice usually takes about two to three days.
STEP FIVE – YEAST STARTER (AKA SHUBO OR MOTO) CREATION
Like sourdough bread, Sake needs a yeast starter. After the koji is created, a portion of steamed rice, water, and yeast are added to create the sake’s starter – or shubo/moto. The mixture then ferments for about two weeks in stainless steel tanks.
STEP SIX – MASH (AKA MOROMI) CREATION
The starter is then combined with water, steamed rice, and additional koji. The Moromi is created in a stainless fermentation tank, and these ingredients are added in increments. After the Moromi is created, it rests for up to a month in these tanks depending on the type of sake produced. During this process the sugar is broken down while fermentation is happening at the same time, during a process called multiple parallel fermentation.
STEP SEVEN – PRESSING
After the Moromi is created, a Sake brewer has options. They can leave the liquid alone, and press it off into a machine called a Yabuta or it can add a bit of brewer’s alcohol and do the same thing. After pressing, the liquids are then separated from its solids (which are Sake lees.) Some Sakes have more contact with the lees than others, which, like in the winemaking process yields a more textured Sake.
STEP EIGHT – FILTERING & PASTURIZATION
The Sake is then filtered to remove any of the finer solids. Usually these filters are charcoal based, to help purify sake without altering its flavors. After it is filtered, it is then pasteurized where it is flash heated to about 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. This makes Sake unique, because other types of alcohol like wine or beer are not pasteurized before the bottling process. The pasteurization process ends the fermentation process and kills any unwanted bacteria.
STEP NINE – AGING
After pasteurization, Sake is then aged for three to six months before it is bottled and released into the marketplace.
POLISH LEVELS
The polish level of a Sake effects its flavor, and often the pricing. We know that when Sake brewers are making the stuff, they need to polish away that outer coating in order to reveal the starchy, sugary core of the rice. But there are other things in that outer coating, like proteins and fats that alter the flavor of the final product.
If Sake has more of that outer coating, it is considered to have a high polishing ratio – yeah I know it’s counterintuitive. If it has less of that outer coating and more has been polished off, it is considered to have less of it. Sakes with low polishing ratios taste fruitier, livelier, and are more vibrant. Sakes with a higher polishing ratio tend to be more rustic and have the aroma of steamed rice. I myself am partial to those milkier, higher polished Sakes, but there’s a time and place for everything.
CATEGORIES OF SAKE
JUST RICE WITH NO EXTRA ALCOHOL
Junmai – For The Budget Conscious Drinker
Junmai sake is just your regular sake with rice, water, koji and yeast. Junmai sakes have no added brewer’s alcohol, like other categories of Sake do. For basic Junmai Sake, the rice is often polished to at least 70%, but since there are no regulations, it can vary. It is a broad classification, and these sakes are typically fuller bodied and savory. Junmai sakes can be served warm or chilled and are versatile enough to be paired with most fish dishes and rice-based dishes. You could even consider busting out a bottle of Junmai Sake with your next cheeseboard, as some folks consider Sake to be even more food friendly than most wines.
Tokubetsu Junmai – For Fans of Fruity, Light Flavors
Tokubetsu Junmai is another type of sake that just consists of rice, water, koji mold and yeast. The polishing level for Tokubetsu is 60% or less. It is typically a light and crisp off dry sake that should be served cold in order to bring out its fruitier flavors. You could pair these Sakes with oysters, or caesar salad with anchovies.
Junmai Ginjo – For Flower Fiends
Junmai Ginjo has rice with a high polish level and is typically fermented at lower temperatures for a very long time. These styles of Sake are fruity and floral. You definitely do not want to serve these heated because they are elegant sakes, and higher temperatures will kill off all that delicate flowery goodness. Think light and elegant when pairing this style of Sake. Junmai Ginjo is a great go-to for any and all sashimi dishes but is also surprisingly great when paried with fried chicken because of those Umami flavors.
Junmai Daijinjo – For The Fancy Folks
Junmai Daijinjo is the premium, fancy AF sake. The 50% of the rice is polished away at a bare minimum, exposing the kernel’s starchy core. These sakes are brewed low and slow, and typically have lots of complex floral flavors and a savory umami vibe to them. Junmai Daijinji is a super complicated style of Sake that pairs great with steamed fish dishes in addition to your usual Sushi and Sashimi related suspects.
ARUTEN SAKES – WHERE BREWER’S ALCOHOL IS ADDED FOR A LITTLE “OOMPH”
Honjozo – A Big, Robust Boi With Earthy Flavors
If you’re the type of individual who drinks black coffee or neat spirits – you should check out Honjozo. Honjozo is a higher acid Sake that has additional brewer’s alcohol added to its base. 70% or less of the rice remains, yielding a more rustic and acidic sake, perfect for pairing with Robatayaki. Honjozo is versatile enough to be served warm or cold.
Tokubetsu Honjozo – For Folks Who Like Spice In Their Lives
Though brewer’s alcohol is also added to Tokubetsu Honjozo, this type of sake has more of a polish to it. These sakes are very aromatic and have tea-like aromas and an almost smoky quality to them. Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake is strong enough to stand up to spicier dishes as well. Tokubetsu Honjozo is at its best when served at room temperature or slightly cold.
Ginjo – A Mild & Elegant Sake For Your Sashimi Platter
Ginjo is light, bright, fragrant and incredibly floral. These sakes are very polished, yet still have an addition of brewer’s alcohol for some added oomph. Serve these Sakes chilled with lighter foods like sashimi and oysters.
Daiginjo – A Fancy Sake With Added Brewer’s Alcohol
Daijinjo is another type of Sake you will want to serve chilled. Like Ginjo Sake, brewer’s alcohol is added. The polish for Daijinjo sake is higher than Ginjo, and the rice has been polished to less than 50% of its original form. The starch gives it a salty and oily quality. You’ll probably want to go lighter in terms of pairing options for this one as well. Daiginjo is a great aperitif sake, so if you’re serving up some caviar – or even popcorn – consider busting out a bottle of Daiginjo.
I know that was a lot to cover, Thurstqueens. All the information on Sake brewing kind of made my brain hurt but gives me so much more appreciation for it. Hopefully after reading this you feel a bit more in the know about Sake, and don’t hesitate to pull this article up the next time you find yourself looking to pick up a bottle of Sake in the wild!
PICK OF THE WEEK: JOTO JUNMAI $28.00
I absolutely love unfiltered sakes. I can’t get enough of them. I really love their almost opulent texture, and the Joto Junmai Nigori definitely does not disappoint. This lush, creamy, dreamy AF sake has plenty of tropical fruit notes and a subtle sweetness, with some really great umami characteristics. A lot of Nigori sakes tend to be on the sweeter side, but this one has plenty of balance. Because of that, you’ve gotta pair this bad boi with food.
The Joto Junmai Nigori screams in all caps — PAIR ME WITH SPICY FOOD. Picture aromas of pineapple cream and lychee with just a touch of sea salt, and this savory funky vibe. It’s definitely a “food sake,” so plan on having this one with a meal.
All those earthy vibes made me want to have this with some Middle Eastern food. I had it with lamb kefta and spicy harissa from a local LA joint, Mizlala, and it SLAYED. The salty earthiness of the harissa complimented the sake really nicely.