REVENGE OF THE NERDS: THURSTQUEEN SHARES FOUR GEEKY LITTLE GRAPES THAT MAKE KILLER ROSÉ FOR YOUR NEXT SPRINGTIME SIP SESH
Rosé has arrived. And it’s not going anywhere.
Rosé is as iconic as it is iconoclastic. Neither red nor white, this pink hued beverage faced a major moment in the 2010s, and managed to eschew those godawful associations with White Zinfandel. I’ll even wager to declare Rosé the official wine of the Millennial Generation.
Rosé was dismissed in the marketplace for several years because of these negative associations with White Zinfandel, and it was an underdog, just like the generation of underdogs who championed it. But Rosé is Millennial wine because it doesn’t give a fuck. Rosé is a lifestyle. It’s the perfect wine for day drinking by the pool, it doesn’t take itself too seriously and it definitely does not conform, just like Millennials. Folks tell us to choose a red or a white wine and we say, “F*ck you, we’re drinking the pink stuff.” You’re got damn right.
Rosé also has some of the best goddamn branding out of any category of wine. The bright pink hue is super Instagram friendly, and let’s not even begin to discuss the hashtags. From “Yeswayrosé!" to “roséallday,” or the misspelled version - “roseallday,” pink wine was simply made for the Gram.
As someone who slung wine on the mean streets of LA for several years, wineries were plugging their rosés in February, and February through June was Rosé season. That meant four months out of the year I was bombarded with bottles and bottles of the pink stuff. And honestly? I never complained, it was a good problem to have.
But, I’ll admit, Rosé now faces a new problem - the problem of over saturation. Nearly every winery has a Rosé, and some Rosé tastes godawful. Not only that, but some of the shit is just plain boring if you want to know the truth. There are so many Provençal styles of rosé made out of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. And let’s not even begin to discuss the ones made out of “International Varietals,” like Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.
So many rosés taste the same, in fact, that it’s enough to drive even your diehard rosé-lover a little nuts. This article is meant to be a bit of a “rosé refresh,” if you will, one that will shed light on the geekier grapes that make incredible rosés. If you’re feeling “Rosé fatigue,” be sure to hit up some bottles of pink from unique and interesting varietals to spice things up again. Check out some of my favorite picks below.
TROLLINGER FROM ITALY AND GERMANY
If you’re all about light acid, bright and lifted wines that smell like cotton candy - I shit you not - hit up Rosé made from Trollinger. This grape has more names than a Game of Thrones character, and it sometimes go by the names Schiava and Vernatsch as well. Trollinger is fruity and fragrant, with loads of floral qualities and can even smell like bubble gum. Trollinger rosés have bright acidic qualities, and are incredibly sleek and versatile rosés worth dipping into. These fruity Rosés from Trollinger are great for Beaujolais fans who want to dip into some pink.
PINEAU D’AUNIS FROM THE LOIRE VALLEY
For folks who like their rosés a little savory and spicy, Pineau d’Aunis is the perfect varietal to try. This geeky little grape that also goes by the name of Chenin Noir grows around the Anjou and the Touraine regions within the Loire Valley. Pineau d’Aunis is definitely having a moment in the Natural Wine community, and this mineral-driven, high acid wine is definitely a great option if you find yourself gravitating to grapes like Cabernet Franc.
FREISA FROM THE PIEDMONTE
If you find yourself crushing hard on bold Italian reds, Fresia just very well may be your new favorite Rosé grape. This fruity grape has loads of strawberry aromas, and dark floral violet qualities as well. Fresia is incredibly rare, and is genetically related to Nebbiolo. The grape was nearly extinct in 2018, as many of the plantings were uprooted for other “more popular grapes,” and there were a measly 787 hectares left of the stuff. Fresia has a bit more tannins than some of the other grapes mentioned in this post, and lends itself to more structured rosé. Look for Freisa Rosé in sparkling versions as well.
NIELLUCCIU FROM CORSICA
Maybe you’re a person who just loves Provençal rosé - and there ain’t no shame in that, honey. You love ballerina-light, etherial rosés that taste like melted snow infused with strawberries and white pepper or some shit. Well then, you need to get up on Niellucciu, a Corsican red grape that produces etherial and beautiful rosé. Niellucciu is Grenache-ish, and has those red fruit aromas, and some dusty herbal qualities as well, but this grape has a lot more acid and makes gorgeous rosés that will turn any diehard Provence rosé fan into a believer. Basically, Niellucciu rosé is Summer water, pure and simple.
PICK OF THE WEEK: LEON GOLD PINK GOLD PÉT NAT $24.99 @ LINCOLN FINE WINES
“Basic bitch juice this is not.”
- Baby Yoda
Okay Baby Yoda didn’t actually drink this Pét Nat or say any of that, but if he did, I am fairly certain he would say something akin to that statement.
Leon Gold is a producer based out of the Baden appellation in Germany, which is having a bit of a moment right now in the wine world thanks to legends like Enderle & Moll who are churning out wines that are straight up bottled bangers. He farms his grapes biodynamically, and his Pét Nat made of Trollinger is no exception. This wine literally tastes like watermelon milk infused with lime. There’s just a little bit of salty goodness here, making you want to hit up glass after glass of the stuff.
This wine is a knockout on its own, and begs to be paired with rooftop pool parties and neon monokinis. It also tastes pretty great if you want to pair it with Shrimp Shumai.