THURSTQUEEN WORLD TOUR: ETNA!
BOOM!
Today we are going to talk about one of the more badass regions in Southern Italy.
The Etna DOC.
Mt. Etna is an island off the coast of North Eastern Sicily. And the wines from this region have been exploding - please excuse my puns - onto the scene within the last few years.
With its volcanic soils, great altitude, and closeness to the Ionian Sea, this region is a winegrower’s paradise.
Another amazing thing about Mt. Etna is that there are some vines on Etna that are really freaking old. Maybe some of the oldest vines in the world. Here’s why.
In the late 19th Century, there was a plague upon all Grapes. What was responsible for that plague? This little guy. Say hello to Phylloxera.
The infamous Phylloxera wood louse plagued vines all around the world in the late 19th Century, nearly destroying wine production.
But here’s the thing, it never happened in Etna. So some of the vines growing here are old af and grow on average at about 3,500 feet.
WHY YOU SHOULD CARE
Etna is one of the hottest up and coming regions that many a Wine Folk are watching. It’s the hip, sexy, Italian new kid on the block.
This region produces dry, lighter bodied, mineral driven whites and reds that are affordable, easy drinking, versatile, and definitely have that cool factor.
WHAT ABOUT THE GRAPES?
The Etna DOC produces both Red and White wines. The Red Wines are called Etna Rosso, the White Wines are called Etna Bianco.
These wines both have a distinctive mineral driven quality to them due to the heavily volcanic soil that they’re grown on.
Without further ado, let’s get into it.
THE WHITE GRAPE IN CHARGE.
Carricante
Most people thought Sicily only made red wines, and white wines were very much dismissed.
This is a real shame, because Carricante produces some of the more dazzling, saline, angular, mineral-driven whites around.
If you like wines like Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley or Bordeaux, Albariño, and Muscadet - be sure to check out Carricante and purchase a bottle of Etna Bianco.
A minimum of 60% Carricante must be in Etna Bianco wines, and then it’s usually blended with other, even lesser-known wine varietals such as Catrratto.
What does it taste like?
Imagine flavors ranging from zesty citrus to crisp green apples, gorgeous white blossoms kissed with dew, and the scent of the sea.
Most Carricantes are steely and bright, some even have a sort of minty freshness. Other expressions of this grape that have been aged on the lees are richer, creamier and more honeyed. This should be your go-to Summer wine.
If you’re having some kind of pasta dish, with a lobster cream sauce — hit up a bottle of this. The acid in this wine just makes me want carbs, or some kind of delicate fish.
When I have Carricante, it makes me feel like I’m on a boat, sailing somewhere near Ibiza.
THE RED GRAPES OF ETNA.
Nerello Mascalese
Where my Pinot People at?
Do you dig lighter bodied reds like Pinot Noir? Are you ready to venture out of your comfort zone and try something different?
Then look no further than Nerello Mascalese. This is one of the chief Red Grapes in Etna Rosso. It is the law here that a minimum of 80% of Etna Rosso has Nerello Mascalese. The other 20% is reserved for Nerello Capuccio.
Nerello Mascalese is a delicious, lighter bodied, somewhat tannic red with gripping acidity and great fruit. If you’re into the flavors of wild strawberries, sweet cherries, balsamic, fennel, and spice you’ve gotta give Nerello Mascalese a spin.
Chill out.
What I love about Nerello Mascalese is its versatility. Because it’s such a lighter bodied wine, I often serve some versions of this wine chilled - like an Italian version of Beaujolais.
It’s absolutely delicious, and is the type of wine that’s perfect for the Summer but effortlessly transitions into those cooler, Fall months.
Have this wine the next time you order a Pizza - it’s a winning combination. It’s also extraordinary with Middle Eastern food — Falafel, Shawarma, Greek Salads!
Prepare to have your mind blown.
Nerello Cappuccio
Nerello Cappuccio is like Nerello Mascalese’s sister who doesn’t really get out much. But they have a good relationship.
And Nerello Mascalese really needs Nerello Cappuccio to shine, — but not in a weird, codependent sort of way.
Nerello Cappuccio softens Nerello Mascalese’s rough edges and harsh tannins. It also amps up the color factor and adds some of its noteworthy perfume. Nerello Cappuccio tends to add woody aromas and herbal qualities to the wine.
This grape rarely gets featured on its own. But like soulmates — Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese complement each other and bring out their best qualities.
Basically, they’re the grape version of BFFS, yaaasssss!
@courtneymcook If Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio both had Instagram accounts, they would probably take photos like this…
Pink, please?
To all my Rosé lovers, yes. Etna does rosé, but over here they call it Rosato.
Rosato here is usually some blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio - or just 100% Nerello Mascalese. And lord have mercy… they are delightful!
If you like your Rosé from Provence - dry and crisp - definitely give some of these Etna Rosés a try! Sure, they’re a bit fruiter but that volcanic soil really lends a fantastic minerality to these wines.
And SINCE we’re talking about the pink stuff…. Without further ado let’s talk about our
PICK OF THE WEEK:
I Custodi Alnus Etna Rosato 2018 $23.90 @ Eatily Vino Los Angeles
@icustodidellevignedelletna
Before I talk about this wine, I wanna talk about one man.
Salvo Foti.
I remember when I was a wee broker, venturing into the world of Italian wines. I started repping I Custodi in my portfolio, and a mentor who was extremely knowledgable about the world of Italian wines told me about this producer.
He was VERY discriminating when it came to his Italian wines, but when I Custodi was mentioned, the guy’s face lit up like a kid in a candy store. He called Salvo Foti —
“The God of Etna.”
It was literally the most epic introduction ever and I had to know more.
Once I tasted I Custodi and saw the outrageously reasonable pricing, I immediately knew why people had such mad respect for the guy.
Ladies and gentlemen, Salvo Foti — a real one.
Salvo Foti is a legend on Mt Etna. This guy has a gift for making some of the most incredible wines — on a volcano no less. (Like, seriously how badass is that?)
He is one of the largest reasons why the wines of Mt Etna are where they are today. His wines are literally the freaking gold standard of Etna.
But do you want to know my favorite thing about Salvo Foti?
The “I Vigneri” project.
Salvo Foti created an association of local growers on Mt Etna and resurrected some of the oldest philosophies of viticulture associated with the region.
The Vigneri believe in restoring the balance and valuing the traditional ecosystem of Mt Etna, passing down know how from generations of wine growers so they can continue to make wine in harmony with the incredible Etna DOC.
It’s beautiful, isn’t it? There’s something that really speaks to me here about a collective of growers, working together, valuing the land and creating excellent wines. I wish there were more Salvo Fotis in the world to encourage this kind of camaraderie in other regions.
But anyway, I digress, let’s get to the good stuff. The juice!
This Rosato is made from 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio - because they’re bffs after all.
When I have a sip of this wine it brings images of the ripest raspberries, wildflowers, and this really amazing lavender quality almost.
There’s definitely the lightest touch of herbs in this wine, and it’s so unbelievably refreshing I could have sip after sip of it. Like a lot of Etna wines, the minerality is on point. It’s crisp, angular, and racy.
It’s funny because I find that with certain wines I’ve worked with, revisiting them literally takes me back in time.
Tasting this wine takes me back to so many late afternoons driving up and down the Silverlake section of Sunset Blvd - blasting EDM of course - with this little beauty in my bag, showing it to all the hip little natural wine bars, and taking it home.
The shocking pink color reminds me of the jaw-dropping neon pink and orange sunsets with the silhouettes of palm trees I would see as I drove back home to my little apartment in Downtown LA while the lights of the city would slowly start to twinkle.
This wine pairs beautifully with a crisp summer salad, any type of pizza or flatbread with loads of veggies, heck even roasted asparagus wrapped in prosciutto will do the trick.
I know I used to have whatever remained of my sample bottle with a homemade pizza I would make at home using Trader Joe’s Pizza Dough and all the veggies I could get my hands on.
If you see a bottle of this, or can swing by Eatily and pick one up, I highly recommend you do.