CHIANTI’S BIG COMEBACK — HOW THE REVITALIZED WINES OF THIS REGION HIT DIFFERENT IN 2022

As a region, Chianti’s been dealt a pretty bad rap. And some folks have sworn off the Sangiovese-based wines entirely due to a dearth of quality juice in the early 1980s, but a lot has changed since then.

Chianti is the ultimate food wine, and instead of yielding fruity flavors, this wine tilts more towards savory and salty characteristics. You can find some pretty stellar Chiantis at a fairly affordable price point if you know what to look for. In this post we’re going chat about the Sangiovese grape, do a quick brush up on the history of Chianti, and learn about the categories to look for when you’re out in the wild.

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SANGIOVESE: THE HEART AND SOUL OF CHIANTI

Sangiovese is the main character of Chianti. For any Chianti to be classified within the Chianti Classico DOC, 80% of the wine has to be composed of the Sangiovese grape. 20% of other red grapes can be thrown in for a little extra seasoning of sorts, and those grapes include Colorino, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot as well. No white grapes can be added to Chianti whatsoever, according to the Italian wine legislation.

If you’re wondering what Sangiovese is supposed to taste like, I’ll break it down for you. Sangiovese typically has a lot of tart red fruit flavors going on, along with plenty of herbal characteristics. With big tannins and a lot of acidity, Sangiovese is perfect for anything with tomatoes and meat - hence the good old spaghetti and meatballs pairing.

Sangiovese can be made in wines outside of the Chianti zone, but then it can’t be called “Chianti.” You can find loads of Sangiovese based rosés, or creative blends with Sangiovese and international grapes. These are often called Super Tuscans.

THE HISTORY OF THE CHIANTI REGION

In the 1800s, Chianti was traditionally a blend of Sangiovese and white grapes, like Malvasia and Trebbiano. The man behind the idea to blend red and white grapes in Chianti was Baron Bettino Ricasoli, whose family was making wine since the 1100 AD. It turns out Chianti was an insanely popular beverage, and in the 20th Century after World War II demand was insatiable.

Folks had to cut corners because people couldn’t get enough of the stuff, and the vigneri started making Chianti with more and more Trebbiano. Eventually quality got so bad, the stuff was undrinkable. In the 1960s, people would typically buy Chiantis not for the wine, but for the cute little bottle and straw flask - called a fiasco. (Irony not withstanding.)

In the 1970s and 1980s, winemakers within the area started blending Chianti with international varietals like Cabernet and Merlot. These wines were called Super Tuscans, and they put Tuscany back on the map as an impressive wine region.

All the success of the Super Tuscans made folks start paying attention to the Chianti region again, and the winemakers who made traditional, true blue Chianti were shaken out of their complacency. Italian wine legislation made it so Chianti couldn’t be cut with any white grapes, and better farming practices were put into place.

Chianti has been churning out some impressive quality juice of late, but the public has yet to catch on. If you know what to look for, you can find some great quality juice - that’s way cheaper than your garden variety Super Tuscan.

AGING REQUIREMENTS OF CHIANTI

CHIANTI : $

Chianti is made up of 38,000 acres and seven different sub zones. This is the average, weeknight, Netflix and chill Chianti. These wines are aged for typically 6 months in oak - typically Slavonian. They’re tart, easy drinking and ready to go. Perfect for a Wednesday night pizza party.

CHIANTI SUPERIORE: $$

This is considered “iconic” Chianti. Chianti Superiore has been aged in oak for 1 year, and all that acid has been smoothed out due to the influence of oak. Chianti Superiore can come from any of the regions outside of Chianti Classico.

CHIANTI RISERVA: $$$

Chianti Riserva is like the Mercedes Benz of Chianti. It’s usually a producer’s top of the line Chianti. Chianti Riserva has been aged in oak for two years.

GRAN SELEZIONE: $$$

These wines are aged for 2.5 years in oak and are strictly from the Chianti Classico region. They are considered the top of the line for these producers.

PICK OF THE WEEK: Felsina Berardegna Chianti Classico 2019 $25.99 @ Mission Wine & Spirits

Felsina was one of the brands I used to work with back when I was a liquor rep, selling booze in LA. These folks have been making wine in the Chianti Classico area for over 60 years. The first vintage of the Feline Berardegna was the 1967, so these folks have had a long time to perfect their craft.

As far as Chianti goes, the Felsina Berardegna is super classic. The Sangiovese vines thrive in higher altitude vineyards with Southwestern exposure - the ideal - and grow in a mixture of different soil types. This wine has got plenty of cherry aromas, and a nice kiss of saltiness making it the ultimate weeknight pasta wine.

Felsina definitely makes more “traditional” Chianti. So if you’re looking to try a quintessential, classic expression of this wine — definitely purchase a bottle.