THURSTQUEEN WORLD TOUR: AUSTRALIA
There’s so much more to Australian wine than Yellowtail.
I’ll admit, there were many nights post college as a young, broke, and directionless millennial, when I needed a wine that was cheap and would get the job done. I had graduated from my Peach André phase and was moving up in the world, so Yellowtail was my first foray into Australian Wine. Also, that kangaroo was so got-damn cute, I couldn’t resist!
A lot of folks dismiss Australian wines, because they think these wines are dirt cheap, screw cap bottles of plonk you can pick up at a Rite Aid or what-have-you, but I urge you to give them another chance. There are some truly spectacular wines coming out of the region, and if you know where to look, you can really save yourself some hard earned cash and drink like one of the classiest of mofos around.
THE HISTORY OF AUSTRALIAN WINE - LET’S GO DOWN UNDER, BETCH
Australia’s winemaking history dates all the way back to 1788, when the governor, Arthur Phillip, brought some plantings down to Sydney. A few decades later, James Busby brought plantings from France and Spain to the region and introduced the lovely folks of Australia to Syrah, or as they call it, Shiraz.
JUST A QUICK ‘LIL PSA: SHIRAZ = SYRAH
That’s right, Shiraz and Syrah are not different grapes. Shiraz is Syrah, except just pronounced in a Sean Connory-esque fashion.
In its infancy, Australia mainly produced dessert wines and fortified wines (brandy and the like.) It wasn’t until the 1960s they began to focus on producing table wines. Certain brands put Australia on the map, like Penfolds Grange, and Australia became a region that could compete with the best of ‘em.
Production started skyrocketing in the early 2000s, with brands like Yellowtail, and folks fell in love with Australian wines. There was a brief moment in the late 2000s where there was an oversupply of grapes, which led to a grape glut and drop in profitability. Eventually, the region recovered and now exports 60% of the wines it produces.
AUSTRALIA - LEADERS IN WINE INNOVATION & PRODUCTION
Interestingly enough, Australia is one of the most forward-thinking regions on the planet. Australia was one of the first wine regions to implement unique vineyard management techniques, like using irrigation and not tilling their vineyards. The reason for this is because the climate there is generally drier, so the Aussie winemakers needed to get the most out of their soil. Now with climate change, a lot of other regions are looking to Australia as a leader in tending vines.
Australia also invented box wine and the screw cap. They also are known for making impressive creative choices with sparkling wine production — sparkling Shiraz, anyone? Australian winemakers have implemented cost saving techniques to make bubbles like the tank and transfer method.
WTF IS THE TRANSFER METHOD?
The Transfer Method is a way of making sparkling wine that is basically the same as Champagne, except after the secondary fermentation process happens, the bottle is emptied into a tank, filtered, and the winemaker makes some final tweaks before transferring it to a new bottle and dosing it.
If you’re not familiar with how Champagne is made, be sure to read this Thurstqueen post to get the tea.
Now, without further ado, let’s chat about the major Australian wine regions - they call them GIs here - and what types of wine to look for from each one.
AUSSIE GI 1: BAROSSA VALLEY
LOOK FOR: SHIRAZ, CABERNET & CHARDONNAY (IF YOU LIKE BIG, OVER THE TOP CHARDY)
If you’re one of those wine drinkers whose personal motto is, “Go big or go home,” you’ll probably appreciate the wines from the Barossa Valley. The Barossa Valley is arguably the most famous Aussie wine regions - and quite possibly home to some of the oldest vines in the world.
Because of Australia’s geographical isolation, it wasn’t possible for a phylloxera outbreak to happen on the continent in the late 1860s, so the majority of Aussie vines were spared. Here in the Barossa, you can find old vine Shiraz, for which legendary producers like Penfold’s Grange are famous for.
I was fortunate enough to try Grange at an industry event a long time ago, and it’s an extremely striking version of Syrah. It’s very concentrated, and almost port-like, super juicy and unlike the herbal Syrahs of the Northern Rhône. I’m not hyping the wine, it was honestly a bit much for me - but it was memorable and I’ll never forget how it tasted. At an $850.00 a bottle on the low end, Grange is unfortunately out of the Thurstqueen price range, and I doubt I’ll be able to try a bottle again. But, Grange is certainly proof that Old Vine Shiraz is very distinctive.
The Barossa valley certainly has the “prestige factor,” of all the Aussie regions. And is a good one to look for, but because of that, some of these wines might be priced a bit higher.
AUSSIE GI 2: YARRA VALLEY
LOOK FOR: PINOT NOIR, RIESLING, CHARDONNAY, SHIRAZ, NEBBIOLO, GEWÜRTZTRAMINER
The Yarra Valley is one of the cooler climate growing regions in Australia, and because of that, you’ll generally find great expressions of Pinot Noir, Riesling, Nebbiolo and Gewürtztraminer.
Chardonnays and Shiraz grown here will have a bit more of an French sensibility - and will not be as big as their counterparts from the Barossa Valley.
The Yarra Valley is home to red volcanic and sandy loam soils, making this a very interesting place to grow Pinot Noir. If you’re a Burgundy lover, you should definitely consider purchasing a Pinot Noir from the Yara Valley.
AUSSIE GI 3: NEW SOUTH WALES
LOOK FOR: TEMPRANILLO & VERDEHLO
For a while, New South Wales was heavily reliant on producing Chardonnay and Shiraz. Yet with all that in mind, the recent drought forced folks from this part of Australia to get creative. We know that Australian winemakers are adaptable and innovative, so they started to plant drought tolerant varietals - like Tempranillo and Verdehlo.
You’ll also find some plantings of Sémillon, a richly honeyed Bordeaux varietal, here as well. If you want to get really specific, look for wines from the Hunter Valley, a very important wine region located within New South Wales.
AUSSIE GI 4: TASMANIA
LOOK FOR: RIESLING, PINOT NOIR, SAUVIGNON BLANC, CHARDONNAY
Tasmania is basically the “cool kid,” of all the Australian wine regions. Production has always been small here, but it’s the spot that all the hipster Somms crush hardcore on.
I think the reason for this is because the climate is much cooler than a lot of mainland Australia, and it results in higher acid wines. I’ve had Riesling from Tasmania, and it gives some of the German Rieslings a run for their money, let me tell YOU.
Initially the brutal cold made it very difficult to grow grapes in this region, but now as the planet warms, all those cool climate wine junkies are flocking to Tasmania for their expressions of Pinot Noir, Chablis-esque Chardy, and Riesling.
PICK OF THE WEEK: SMALLFRY JELLYFISH $23.99 at The Wine House
I taste a lot of wines and it’s a rare occasion that I try one that actually surprises the living shit out of me. Let’s just say the Smallfry Jellyfish Grenache does exactly that — in the best possible way.
I’ll be honest, I saw the 14% ABV on this bottle and was expecting some hot, grippy and concentrated expression of Grenache - but that definitely was not it.
The Jellyfish Grenache is sheer almost, with a juicy texture and tastes like the ripest blackberries grown in the Summer. There’s an inky depth and intensity that makes this wine comparable to Syrah in many ways - barring astringent tannins. But what I can’t get over is how sneakily light and dangerously drinkable it is. It’s like some delicious high alcohol grape soda. Light and airy? And 14% ABV? Trouble, I say! Trouble!
Based out of Australia’s Eden Valley and Vine Vale within the Barossa Valley, Smallfry is natty wine partnership between Suzi Hilder and Wayne Ahrens. They believe in crafting small batch, high quality wines that are as affordable as possible.
This is the ultimate backyard BBQ Grenache, and I’m stunned more folks haven’t gotten on the Jellyfish train. Run, don’t walk to the Wine House and grab a couple of bottles before it’s gone!