THURSQUEEN WORLD TOUR: ARMENIA
Armenia makes GREAT, affordable wine and you should know about it.
Not only are Armenian wines great - all caps great - but you can find a lot of Armenian wines that are within the $30.00 and under price range. The quality to price ratio for Armenian wine is awesome. But as a region, Armenia has been overlooked for centuries, which is why, Thurstqueen, we are going to talk about it.
I’ll continue to say this until I’m blue in the face, but you can find great and affordable wines from regions off the beaten path. There are so many small and hungry producers that are just dying to get their wines out there into the marketplace! The more attention you pay to these lesser-known regions, the more likely you’re going to have a great wine-drinking experience and learn something new!
So without further ado, let’s chat all things Armenian Wine. We’re going to take a deep dive into the history of Armenian Wine, popular Armenian Wine Regions, the grapes that are cultivated in Armenia, and what to look for when purchasing your next bottle of Armenian wine in the wild.
THE HISTORY OF ARMENIAN WINE
Armenia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Winemaking in Armenia dates back to 400 BC. Armenia is in what is known as, “the cradle of wine,” which means that there is a high likelihood that it is one of the original birthplaces of winemaking.
Biblical references state that Noah planted the first vines after his Ark washed up on Mount Ararat. But regardless of all that, it’s very apparent that Armenian wine production spans multiple centuries.
Armenia is home to the ruins of the oldest working winery in the world.
The region of Vayats Zyor is at this point in time, the home to oldest winery in the world. In 2010, researchers found ruins of a 6,000 year old winemaking facility trapped inside a cave, complete with fermentation vessels and the remains of crushed grapes.
The Armenian Wine Region holds a long, turbulent history, but the future looks bright.
Armenia was referred to by 8th century rulers as, “The land of the vineyards.” The region was also revered by the Greeks - who as we know have a long history with wine as well.
But sadly, Armenia’s progress as a wine region stopped in the 1920s. This was when the Soviet Red Army invaded and converted their wineries to processing plants for brandy distillation, which was really sad.
Armenian wine production under Soviet occupation.
At this time, many smaller vineyards were destroyed. Wine was considered utilitarian and industrial, and a lot of vineyards were focused on mass production and planted in unfavorable areas. International grape varietals - like Cabernet, Chardonnay, and others — were favored over indigenous ones, and the storied vineyards were abandoned.
The 1990s onward….
After the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991, a lot of young Armenian winemakers wanted to start making quality-driven wines. They are open to new technology and remaining in touch with whatever traditions of the past they can learn.
Indigenous Armenian Grapes To Know & The Wines They Make
So lemme tell you something real quick: there are 400 indigenous Armenian grapes — THAT WE KNOW OF. That’s a lot of grapes, and I feel like that would make for one extremely long AF article. So, I’m going to take a quick second to dish on the most popular Armenian grapes and the types of wines they make.
THE MOST COMMON GRAPES YOU WILL SEE FROM ARMENIA ARE:
ARENI NOIR - FOR PINOT NOIR & SANGIOVESE LOVERS
Areni Noir - or Areni - is one of the most popular red varietals in Armenia. Consider it basically the king of all red grapes within the region. If you are a Pinot Noir or Sangiovese enthusiast, Areni Noir is probably the grape for you. Areni Noir is a medium-bodied, higher-acid red grape that has beautiful red and black fruit aromas. Picture cherries, plums, blackberries with just a bit of peppery spice.
Areni Noir is a great wine to try when you’re looking for a mellow, medium-bodied wine that is versatile enough to pair with heartier meat-centric dishes, yet is great with dishes like cedar-plank salmon, or grilled poultry.
VOSKEHAT - FOR SAUVIGNON BLANC & HIGH-ACID WHITE FANS
The name “Voskehat” translates to “golden berry.” This beautiful white grape has loads of citrus, white flower, and some green, herbal aromas. This grape is medium-bodied, so it is a bit similar to a Sauvignon Blanc in terms of weight in your mouth.
Though this grape is refreshing and has loads of acidity, it can also be made into dessert and fortified wines. No wonder it’s considered the Armenian Queen of Grapes.
Voskehat is a very transparent grape. Let me explain what I mean by that. Voskehat is the type of grape that is able to show different characteristics depending on the weather conditions for each vintage. Certain warmer years, Vokeshat is very fruity and almost tropical tasting. During cooler years, expect more acidity and mineral characteristics.
KHNDOGHINI/SIRENI - SO PETIT SIRAH FANS CAN FEEL SEEN
If you’re into enormous, tannic red wines that are a bit higher in alcohol and you drink things like Petit Sirah or Tannat on the reg — Khndoghini is the grape for you. Khndogini means, “smiling,” or “joyful,” in Armenian. Khndoghini typically has aromas of blackberries, plums, and has a dark color with a little bit of magenta in it. Sometimes softer and more playful aromas of cotton candy can be found in this fuller-bodied grape.
Khndoghini is used to add depth of fruit and a little extra alcoholic “oomph” to red blends from Armenia.
ARMENIAN WINE REGIONS TO KNOW AND WHAT TO LOOK FOR:
VAYOTS DZOR
LOOK FOR: REDS WITH ARENI, WHITE WINES WITH VOSKEHAT (STILL OR SPARKLING), DESSERT WINES WITH KHATOUN KARJI
Vayots Dzor is one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world. This is the region that many consider to be the cradle of wine. Vayots Dzor is Armenia’s crown jewel wine region, and many of Armenia’s best wines come from this beautiful place.
The soils in the Vayots Dzor region are volcanic and rocky, which is great because you can find a lot of old vine grapes in this region. Remember that pesky little buggar that nearly destroyed every single grapevine around the world at the turn of the 19th Century? Phylloxera?
Phylloxera has it significantly harder in volcanic soil, which is why vineyards in places like Mount Etna and the Vayots Dzor region in Armenia have pre-phylloxera vines. The volcanic soil served as a deterrent for the parasitic pest.
A lot of the vineyards are typically 3 to 4,000 feet above sea level. Though the Vayots Dzor region is the oldest region in Armenia, it doesn’t necessarily have the most wineries. Production here is still smaller than other Armenian wine regions. If you love your Sauternes and dessert wines, look for this rare white grape called Khatoun Karji.
ARARAT
LOOK FOR: WHITE GRAPES LIKE SPITAK ARAKESINI, SPITAKENI, CHARDONNAY AND BRANDY
A super sunny plateau that is not as high in elevation as Vayots Dzor, Ararat is another incredibly important Armenian wine region.
Despite a heavier focus on white grapes and brandy production, Ararat is home to several different kinds of red grapes as well. The Ararat region is definitely on the up and up in terms of popularity, and more producers are setting their sights on this promising area.
ARMAVIR
LOOK FOR: ARENI NOIR, CHENIN BLANC, ALIGOTÉ, COLOMBARD, KANGUN, AND SPARKLING WHITE WINES
The largest wine producing region in Armenia. Many vineyards in this part of Armenia will have views of Mount Ararat
Here, you’ll be able to find many different wines and cognacs. Pay particular attention to sparkling wines in this region.
ARTSAKH
LOOK FOR: RICH RED WINES WITH SIRENI
A territory that sits between the Armenia and Azerbaijan, this zone has an Armenian ethnic majority. It is simply not possible to discuss this wine region without discussing the conflict in it, as wine and war here are inextricably linked.
A lot of promising vineyards in this particular region have been lost due to the conflict with Azerbaijan, and there have been many wars in the area. Yet a lot of Armenian winemakers are relentlessly brave, and continue cultivating vines in both estate vineyards and grower cooperatives, despite the bloodshed within the region. This place is best known for cultivating the Sireni vine, which makes that richly structured Petit Sirah-like wine.
Since the wars, there has been more demand than ever for wines from Artsakh, and well known producers like Kataro are very much in demand on a global scale.
PICK OF THE WEEK: KEUSCH SPARKLING WINE $24.00 at Gratitude Market
From the high-altitude Vayots Dzor region in Armenia, this crisp, refreshing, classically done - yes it’s done the exact style as Champagne - sparkler is a true beaut. She’s also a great friggin’ value. This wine is 60% Voskehat and 40% Khatouni, and loaded with plenty of minerality. Very fine, soft bubbles make this an easy-going, day-drinking sparkler. Perfect for garden parties, pre and post wedding celebrations just because those bubbles are so darn soft. You’re going to want to have glass after glass of this stuff because it’s so friendly.
I got loads of aromas of green apples, creamy white florals, citrus flesh, and river rocks. If you’re into higher-acid, Pinot Noir-based Champagnes that are on the leaner side of the spectrum, or Cavas, this is a beautiful bubbly to give a go. A friend of mine and I had this out on the patio with a cheese plate, and it was perfect with briny and creamy goat’s milk-based cheeses and dried persimmons.
Versatile af, and stripped down elegance without being fussy. Truly very impressive. I’d buy this over a bottle of $50.00 + grocery store Champs from those big houses any day. It is a great conversation starter - I mean, you can tell all your friends about how kick ass Armenia is as a wine region - and you could save on sparkling wine too.