THURSTQUEEN WORLD TOUR: TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Trentino-Alto Adige is a wine paradise
If you ask any Sommelier or wine industry insider about Trentino-Alto Adige, chances are their eyes will light up. If that wine industry insider happens to be a cartoon, their expression will probably look like this:
With its breathtaking vineyards, OBSCENELY diverse amount of wines of both the red and white persuasion, and the fact that dollar for dollar it is probably one of the biggest screaming values Italy has to offer, there’s a high chance that once you discover Trentino-Alto Adige - or as some call it Alto Adige - you too will become a lifelong fan.
THE TEA ON ALTO ADIGE
With the Swiss Alps to the North and the Veneto and Lombardy due South, Alto Adige is different from a lot of wine regions. It’s not a coastal region at all. The second longest river in Italy runs through it, the Adige River. It’s the Northernmost region in all of Italy, and in certain parts over half the population speaks German.
This region is super duper tiny, coming in at only 13,000 acres and exists in what was known as a glacial valley. A lot of the vineyards grow up the hillsides - as grapes like to have good steeply sloping terraces for drainage. The climate here is pretty mild and Mediterranean.
Alto Adige has graveled soils mixed with limestone, sand and clay. In the ancient days of yore, the area showed enormous potential for wine growing, so much in fact that the ancient Romans cultivated grapes here. It’s also probably one of the most beautiful wine regions that’s ever existed, resting at the base of the Dolomites.
GRAPES, GRAPES, GRAPES
Trentino Alto Adige is a Pinot Grigio lover’s dream…
Let’s talk about the grapes that grow in Trentino-Alto Adige! Do you remember my post on Pinot Grigio? If you are like Ramona Singer from the Real Housewives and luuuuurve your Pinot Grigio - than you need to start buying some Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige stat, okay???
…flying in Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige
Pinot Grigio is probably the most popular grape you’ll find exported to the US from Alto Adige. And chances are, the first time you’ll experience a wine from this incredible region, a Pinot Grigio it will be. The ‘Grigio up in here is super crisp and very acidic. It’s honestly the pride and joy from this part of Italy, and they sure as hell make some damn fine versions of the ‘Grigio.
You’re probably not going to be getting those lemony, peachy or sugary flavors of The Gris (Pinot Gris) from the US or even The Alsace. So if high acid white wines are your thing - hook up with a glass of ‘Grigio from Trentino!
IF YOU FREAK OVER RIESLING - TRY KERNER
If there’s one geeky little grape that you should know about, it’s Kerner. Interestingly enough, Kerner is a hybrid of the grape Riesling mixed with Trollinger - another varietal that is grown in Alto Adige. Trollinger’s other name is Schiava - a gorgeous red wine we will discuss in a second.
The folks who were making wine in Trentino-Alto Adige wanted to grow Riesling, but the climate was too warm for its delicate sensibilities and lo! Kerner was born.
I am OBSESSED with Kerner. This tropical and aromatic grape smells like pineapple, jasmine, and mango. Kerner is basically Riesling on a tropical vacation. It’s more mellow, laid back, and pairs beautifully with Indian and Thai cuisine.
GEWÜRTZTRAMINER GROWS HERE TOO!
If you are like me and flip over a good Gewürtz but don’t know where to find one - you can bet your ass that Alto Adige is going to be a region that pretty much always does right by this varietal.
Gewürtztraminer from Alto Adige is different from Gewürtztraminer in the Alsace. In Alto Adige, the expressions of Gewürtz are going to be way more acidic, crisp, and mineral-driven with aromas of rose petals, lychee, and tropical fruit.
Honestly, my favorite Gewürtztraminer of all time is from this region — made by the incredible producer Elena Walch. Picture an aromatic rave of rose petals, white Lillies, and freshly grated ginger with a billowy, cloud-like consistency. The sheer racing acidity of this wine cuts like glass. If you stumble across a bottle - snag it!
SCHIAVA FOR FANS OF LIGHTER REDS
Sometimes weird is great. If you’re reading this blog, you probably appreciate weird and are willing to get down with some varietals off the beaten path. This is why I’m gonna plug the crap out of Schiava and tell anybody who will listen to drink it.
I mentioned this wacky, lighter-bodied red varietal in my blog post on Bikini Wines, because it is honestly the perfect easy-drinking Summer red. If you like Beaujolais, White Zinfandel, or any chilled red for that matter - Schiava will be your jam.
What I love about Schiava is it throws off these insane and wacky aromas like bubblegum, cotton candy, and roses on the nose but when you drink it, that shit’s super respectful. It’s a food friendly wine, with good acidity and not over-the-top fruitiness. Sometimes I even get a really pleasant almond quality when I have this wine. Schiava is simply the perfect picnic wine. It generally has a lower alcohol content, making it perfect to have that second or third glass.
Schiava is also versatile as all get out, so you can pop that shit in the fridge and chill it down if cool red wines are your vibe.
LAGREIN - FOR RED WINE LOVERS
Oh how I do love a good glass of Lagrein. Lagrein is honestly one of the sexiest red wines on planet earth. Full stop. If it were a person it would be Jason Momoa, Idris Elba, or a Supermodel of your choice. That’s the kind of sexiness in a wine we’re dealing with. Get the picture?
Basically, Lagrein smolders. Okay? It freaking smolders.
More smoldering.
Anywayyyyyy… back to Lagrein.
Lagrein is an ancient varietal that dates all the way back to the 16th Century, and it is way older than Cabernet Sauvignon. If you find Cabernet Sauvignon a bit too… authoritarian or ostentatious but like fuller bodied reds, Lagrein is the varietal for you.
People liken it to a more luscious version of one of those super brooding, intense Northern Rhône Syrahs and honestly? I couldn’t agree more. And that leads me to the…
PICK OF THE WEEK: J. Hofstätter Lagrein 2018 @ $19.99 from K&L
This wine is foxy.
On the nose it’s like a massively intense Cabernet. Picture luscious ripe cherries, freshly cracked black pepper, a bit of black olive and some sagebrush. It’s one of those wines that seems like it’s going to be simply massive on the nose. I was honestly expecting some super intense, concentrated and astringent wine that was going to knock the crap out of me.
I was pleasantly surprised when I took a sip. Honestly? There’s a reason why all the pros go absolutely insane over J. Hofstätter. The viticultural team over there knows what’s up.
The wine is extremely charming, with luscious and really integrated tannins. I would use words like, “succulent,” to describe this wine. It’s pleasant and mellow enough to go with lighter dishes but definitely doesn’t mess around. There’s a certain element of danger to this wine - that’s a characteristic I find in most Lagreins.
If a French Syrah that is dark, sophisticated and intense is your vibe - you are gonna love this Lagrein. It’s going to captivate you, fascinate you, and have you drinking and pontificating on this wine for hours.